Words by Spencer Lengsfield
I’m ashamed to admit that this was my first time setting foot in Wales, but the town of Fishguard has set a high bar. With dramatic cliffs, pastel houses and unwaveringly friendly locals, our weekend was nothing short of wonderful.
As we pulled up to Manor Town House, a stylish Georgian B&B in the centre of Upper Fishguard, we were greeted by our hosts, Helen and Chris. Having run the house for 18 years, their passion and care is evident in every detail: the wood-burning fire, background jazz and the muddy boot tray outside each room for coastal walkers.
We were served tea, fresh scones with clotted cream and jam, and a glass of fizz on arrival – a fitting celebration for their new five-star Visit Wales rating. Our room was blessed with a spectacular sea view and a bed so large the two of us could both starfish comfortably.
My highlight, however, was the four-course breakfast served up by Helen each morning. She is known as the breakfast genius, with her rotating menu featuring a selection of fresh fruit, homemade granola with yogurt and a compote (on Saturday it was strawberry and cardamom foam), along with warm pastries and preserves. The savoury courses were just as impressive, with a truffle and mushroom omelette one morning, and smoked salmon, samphire and cheesy eggs on sourdough from local bakery Nourish the next.
JEMIMA’S TOWN
Fuelled by Helen’s breakfast, we set out to discover Fishguard’s foodie gems. Opposite the B&B is Ffwrn, a vibrant local restaurant, bar and live music venue in a converted church hall. We also stopped by Peppers, a local institution since 1987 run by Myles and his family. There, we chatted with Myles and local cheesemakers Alan and Philip of Pencw Cheese. Myles paired their Jemima blue cheese with a lemon marmalade and savoury Welsh cakes to round off our meal.
Our favourite meal, however, was at Sailor’s Safety, a 10-minute drive towards Newport. Located mid-way through the Dinas Head walk, it’s the perfect place to reward yourself with some local seafood and a pint. We ordered the garlic and chilli prawns, and a fishcake with pickled kohlrabi and tartare sauce to start. After polishing them off in record time, we moved onto the bouillabaisse made with mussels, fennel and the catch of the day (sea bass for us), and a butternut squash risotto with crispy kale and pickled radish.
For a hikers’ packed lunch, Nourish bakery is a must, but get there early. We joined the queue at 9am for a Marmite and cheese twist and a carrot cake muffin.
Owners Charlie and Monika recommended a spot where we could enjoy our pastries in the sun overlooking the coastline. For a slower pace, stop by Jemima’s, a cosy coffee shop with homemade bakes that doubles as a wine bar in the evenings.
We also squeezed in a trip to the Ship Inn, a hometown favourite since the 1860s, featuring a free vintage jukebox and Dennis, the pub dog.
You’ll notice the name Jemima appears everywhere here, and for good reason.
Fishguard was the site of the last invasion of mainland Britain in 1797. The surrender of French forces was aided by local cobbler Jemima Nicholas who, armed only with a pitchfork, famously led a group of women to capture 12 soldiers. Today, she is a local legend. Jackie Stokes from the Fishguard Invasion Centre Trust walked us through the history via the Last Invasion Tapestry.
This detailed, 100ft-long embroidered tapestry took around 78 volunteers four years to complete; a testament to the pride the locals hold in their home.
From pitchfork-wielding locals to stunning cliffs, to Helen’s five-star breakfast, Fishguard is a coastal gem with a lot of heart – and a lot of food!
THE DETAILS
B&B at Manor Town House costs from £160 per night.
GWR and Transport for Wales link Fishguard with cities across the UK. Visit manortownhouse.com; visitpembrokeshire.com/pembrokeshire-by-train
